posted on 26 October 2007 13:52
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editor
Lee Glanville talks about her holiday in St Anton, Austria
ST Anton is a serious skiers' paradise - there are miles of testing runs and, if you feel the need to venture elsewhere, the lift pass entitles you to ski in the upmarket villages of Lech and Zurs.
After many years of skiing in first Italy and then France, it was my first foray into Austria, and what an eye opener it was. From the time we hit Innsbruck airport, Austria was an example of efficiency and was no more expensive than France - even in the mountains. The locals are friendly, keen that you enjoy their village and, for someone who can manage a stilted conversation in French but can only manage a round of beers in German, what was even better was that almost everyone speaks perfect English! Ski hire was a bar-coded dream "try different skis every day if you like, but these should ensure you keep up with your husband!"
proved good advice. Even the highest mountain loos were much more than a hole in the ground!
Wilma Himmelfreundpointner, deputy director of the St Anton tourism office, advised us to make the most of the sun - and for three days we did, all the while wishing for some snow to cover the icy patches. Best runs included the reds down to Stuben, highlighted by a lengthy run down a marked off-piste skiroute, which our boarder friend Wayne encouraged us to try, “it's only a red”.
Rechecking the piste map that night confirmed, as we had feared, that the route was an extreme black! A great run down Happy Valley, a long blue after a drop down black 10, suited every skier in our group. But, be warned, it gets very busy in the afternoon. Best start, and finish, early and head for either the Krazy Kangaruh or, for some real Austrian apres ski, the Mooserwirt and prepare to boogie in your ski gear. Don't forget though you will have to ski back down the home run to St Anton village at 8pm when both bars shut.
The chance for a turn down the Olympic Bobsleigh run in Igls, with a medal-winning driver behind the wheel, proved well worth the bus ride. The run is only open for eight weeks each year - if you get the chance go - it’s great. Overnight on Tuesday we had our wish for snow and enjoyed some great powder on the Rendlebahn the next day - again the marked ski routes saw low-risk, off-piste fun. Thursday was a truly black day and shedloads of soft powder kept both skiers and boarders happy.
Downside was the rain at village level but we only stopped there for lunch and soon headed upwards again - and later back to the Mooserwirt. Snow continued and, with added wind, Friday was almost a white out. Twenty-minute queues for the main cable car led to mid-station and only a black down - and that after crossing a stretch of mountain so windy we thought we may be blown off - if only we could see where the edge was!
Once over the side, it was possible to see the lovely piste. As a friendly instructor pointed out to a female skier in our group: “It is very romantic,” before adding: “are you here with your husband?."
Lunch in a log cabin, fire blazing, with thick snow falling outside was romantic, but the skiing after lunch was tricky and we soon called it a day. St Anton is a great skiers’ resort - and there is a great well-being centre with sauna, steam room and indoor/outdoor heated pool if you fancy the afternoon off. Be warned though, no cossies in the sauna. But I wouldn't advise the resort for beginners or small children unless booked into the excellent ski school. A first-timer in our group found it very testing and much preferred the wider, groomed blues of Lech. It is not that there aren't plenty of blues in St Anton but they do get busy, mainly in the afternoon, as all head for the apres ski. Ah well, as we sang in the Mooserwirt, "Que sera, sera..."
To find out more about St Anton visit http://www.stantonski.co.uk/ or contact the tourist office on: info@stantonamarlberg.com Our party stayed in a Crystal chalet but check out the glorious Hotel Alteposte in the town centre.